A Savory Holiday Treat
The holidays are a time when we’re often given permission to indulge in extra sweets, second helpings and full-flavored comfort foods. Hungry kids asking for another treat are less likely to be turned away—especially if Grandma made said treat on her annual visit.
This has been a tradition for generations, as food writer, historian and librarian Becky Diamond can attest to in “The Gilded Age Cookbook: Recipes and Stories from America’s Golden Era.”
The Gilded Age was a period in the late 1800s which saw a boom of industrialization and innovation in the United States —including in the kitchen.
“In the Gilded Age, the food served on Christmas Day was supposed to be rich, frivolous, delicious and appealing to both children and adults—a tall order! It was an extensive menu, featuring many of the same dishes that are still favorites today, such as roast turkey with stuffing, cranberry jelly and sweet potatoes, as well as some not often seen on modern Christmas dinner tables, such as the recipe for deviled spaghetti shared here,” she says.
While Diamond says it’s not one specifically made for the holidays, this recipe definitely fits the bill. Baked in small ramekin dishes, it’s “always a crowd-pleaser (especially among children)” because of its size—and similarities to mac and cheese.
And it’s one little helpers can get in on, too.
“Children can help peel and dice the hard- boiled eggs and sprinkle the bread crumbs on top,“ Diamond says. “They will also enjoy the optional final step of making an indentation in the top of each ramekin with the back of a spoon and adding a teaspoon of chili sauce (or ketchup if you want to go a more mild route)!”
Diamond’s “The Gilded Age Christmas Cookbook,” is due for release in the fall of 2025 by Globe Pequot. Learn more about Diamond’s books at beckyldiamond.com.
Deviled Spaghetti
This delicious dish is reminiscent of macaroni and cheese, swapping diced hard-boiled eggs for the cheese. It was a practical addition to the Christmas table, as it could be prepared ahead of time and then reheated in the oven just before dinner was served. It’s not clear how the name originated, but it is likely from the cayenne pepper and chili sauce, which give it a kick and add a bit of holiday color.
Serves 6
- 8 ounces (½ package) spaghetti or macaroni
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 cup milk
- 3 hard-boiled eggs, sliced and chopped
- ½ teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 teaspoon onion powder
- ⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
- ½ cup breadcrumbs
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
- Chili sauce or ketchup (optional)
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter six ramekins or Texas-size muffin pans and set aside.
Cook the spaghetti until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain and allow to cool. When cool, chop finely and set aside.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk together to form a paste. Add the milk and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Turn down to low and
add the chopped eggs, salt, cayenne, onion powder, nutmeg and parsley.
Add the spaghetti to the sauce, stirring until combined. Using a large ladle, divide spaghetti mixture among the ramekins or muffin pan cups.
Mix breadcrumbs and melted butter in a small bowl. Spoon on top of spaghetti.
Transfer to the oven and bake for 30 minutes until tops are nicely browned. Remove from the oven and set on a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes. When cool, remove from the muffin pan by running a knife around the edges and carefully turning out onto a plate.
If using ramekins, serve in the individual ramekin dishes. Make an indentation in the top of
each with the back of a spoon and add a teaspoon of chili sauce if desired. Serve immediately.
